Markham Swinging Door Installation
Markham Swinging Door Installation service is here for you to help install a swinging door between your kitchen and your dining room. Markham Swinging Door Installation team is here for you all 24/7 and will come to assist you anywhere in the city. When you need us, call Markham Swinging Door Installation service and one of our teams will show up at your door in 20 minutes or less. Call us now!
Markham Swinging Door Installation will make sure to have a passage way between a kitchen and dining area that works best for you. Markham Swinging Door Installation team will make sure that the door is installed properly to allow you to move between these rooms without opening and closing a door, which can become challenging when your arms are full with dinner or dirty dishes. When you decide to install a door to close off the kitchen from the rest of your home, consider calling Markham Swinging Door Installation to have a swinging door. You can turn any slab door into a swinging door using a pivot hinge, allowing you to match the door to the existing interior doors in your home so call Markham Swinging Door Installation to do it for you.
If you wish to have it done yourself, do not forget to round off the edges of the door to accommodate the swing of the door. Leaving the sharp edges on the door will affect its ability to swing though the jamb. Attach a round-over bit to a router, and run the router along the edge of the door. Use a jack plane to round the edges if you do not have access to a router. Sand the edges with medium-grit sandpaper. Measure the distance from the hinge side of the jamb to the placement location suggested by the pivot hinge manufacturer. Mark this distance on the top of the door jamb. Different pivot hinges can require mounting points for the hinge to work correctly. Hang a plumb bob from the mark you placed on the top of the door jamb. Allow the pump bob to stop moving. Measure the distance between the door jamb and the string at several locations to ensure the distance between the string and the jamb equals the distance required by the pivot hinge manufacturer. Place a pencil mark on the floor where the point of the plumb bob touches the floor. Measure the length of the pivot plate from the centre of the pivot to the end of the plate. Transfer this distance to the floor from the plumb mark. Place the end of the pivot plate on the floor at this new mark. Trace the outline of the pivot plate onto the floor. Drill a hole into the top of the jamb to accommodate the pivot cap. The size of the hole depends on the size of the pivot cap. Insert the pivot cap into the hole and trace around the pivot cap base. Cut along the trace line with a utility knife. Use a chisel to remove small amounts of wood from within the traced lines until the base of the pivot cap sits flush in the jamb. Reinsert the cap into the jamb and secure it with the wood screws that came with the pivot hinge. Mark the location on the top of the door for the pivot socket. Use the distance required by the pivot hinge manufacturer. Drill a hole in the top of the door at the marked location. The size of the hole depends on the size of the hinge. Insert the pivot socket into the top of the door. Trace around the pivot socket base. Chisel out small amounts of wood from inside the trace lines, as you did with the pivot cap, until the base sits flush in the top of the door. Secure the pivot socket to the door with the supplied screws.
Install the floor hinge. Measure a distance of 1/2-inch from the hinge side of the door face. Draw a line up from the bottom of the door, on the hinge side, at the 1/2-inch measurement. Place the door jamb side of the hinge against the line on the door and flush with the door’s bottom. Trace the hinge outline onto the face of the door. Use a small hand saw and the chisel to remove the wood from inside the traced lines to accommodate the bottom hinge. Position the bottom hinge into the cut-out you created in the door. Secure it with the wood screws provided with the pivot hinge. Lift the door into the jamb. Insert the pivot cap into the pivot socket. Position the pivot plate attached to the bottom of the door inside the lines you traced previously. Secure the bottom hinge to the floor with wood screws provided with the hinge. Attach any trim plates that came with the pivot hinge to the door. Just a tip of advice: use a 1/16-inch drill bit to create pilot holes in the floor, door jamb and door before inserting the screws. This can help avoid splitting the wood when installing the screws. The tools needed for this project: Round-over bit, a router, a Jack plane, medium-grit sandpaper, pivot hinge, tape measure, a pencil, plumb bob, a drill, assorted drill bits, utility knife, chisel, a small hand saw.
Swinging doors open in both directions with a push rather than with the turn of a knob. Newer design swinging doors both open and slide across a track, providing options for keeping the door open or allowing it to pivot. The term pre-hung applies to doors mounted in a frame before installation. Regardless of the type of swinging door you have, pre-hung models install the same as any pre-hung door.
If you would like to install a pre-hung swinging door, set the pre-hung door into the door opening, flush with the drywall. Use the level to ensure the door sits squarely in the opening. Where there are gaps between the pre-hung door and the opening, use shims to create a tight fit between the pre-hung door and the opening. Check the door at the corners with a carpenter’s square to be sure they are square after adding the shims. Drill two 3-inch drywall screws into the jamb and through to the trimmer studs at 2 inches beneath the top and centre hinges. Nail 12d finish nails through the shims and into the door jamb. The nails must be long enough to go through the jamb and into the 2-by-4 framing around the door opening. Fill in the remaining gaps between the door frame and the opening frame with expansion foam. This will insulate the opening and eliminate air flow around the new door. Leave the foam to dry and expand according to manufacturer’s instructions. Trim away any excess with a utility knife after it dries. Cut door trim to the measurements of the door. Cut the width pieces shorter than the overall measurement to allow for the dimensions of the height pieces. For example, if the trim around the door is 2 inches wide, subtract 4 inches from the width of the full door frame before cutting the trim for the top of the frame. Install the trim with wood glue, covering the gap between the wall framing and the door frame. Nail the trim in place permanently with 4d finish nails. Fill in the holes over the tops of the nail heads with matching putty to conceal them. Tools and supplies needed for this project are: level, shims, carpenter’s square, a drill, 3-inch drywall screws, 12d finish nails, expansion foam, utility knife, door trim, 4d finish nails, wood putty.
A swinging or a butler door allow servers to carry items in and of a kitchen without turning a door handle or manually closing the door. To open the door, servers use kick plates at the bottom or push plates at handle height. The key component of hardwood and painted butler doors are double-action spring hinges that swing the door closed after it’s opened in either direction. A butler door that is badly warped or split must be replaced. In most cases, if the door rubs on the jamb or the floor, it can be repaired by attending to the hinges. Open the door and secure it with a doorstop firmly wedged under the outer edge. Use a screwdriver to tighten the screws where each of the double-action hinge plates attach at the side of the door jamb and at the corresponding edge of the door. Remove the doorstop and swing the door each way several times. If it continues to rub on the jamb or floor at the push-plate side, one or more of the screws in the door or door jamb are stripped. In most cases, a screw strips at the door jamb because the jamb supports the weight of the door through its range of motion. Open the door and stabilize it with the doorstop. Install a magnetic screw-tip attachment in a power or cordless drill. Use moderate pressure on the drill to locate the screws that spin and won’t tighten. Use the directional selector on the drill to reverse the drill’s rotation, and remove a loose screw with the help of the magnetic screw-tip attachment. Save the screw. Cut a 2-inch-long, tapered wooden filler from a random block of pine or spruce with a utility knife. The filler should be 1/4-inch wide at one end and taper to a point. Squeeze a modest amount of wood glue from a bottle into the hole where the screw was removed. Install the point of the wooden filler though the hole in the hinge and into the jamb. Tap the outer end with a hammer to fit the filler firmly into place. Cut off the excess even with the face of the hinge. To do this, score around the base of the filler where it meets the face of the hinge with the knife, and break off the excess with the hammer. Select “Forward” on the drill’s directional switch. Use moderate pressure on the drill to make a countersink for the screw at the outer end of the wooden filler, using the tip of the screw-tip attachment. Re-install the saved screw and securely tighten it. Repeat the procedure to install tapered wood fillers where other hinge screws are stripped at the door jamb or at the corresponding edge of the door. Tools and supplies needed: doorstop, screwdriver, power or cordless drill, magnetic screw-tip attachment, random wooden block of pine or spruce, utility knife, wood glue, hammer. A good advice to follow will be to adjust the speed the door closes by loosening or tightening the tension on the internal hinge springs. Refer to the manufacturer’s website for instructions and the necessary tools to adjust the tension on spring hinges. If you need help, we are always here for you and you can enlist our professional door installer to evaluate the door’s operation and recommend a method of repair. Call us for help at any time. We are here for all your door needs. Call us 24/7!