Best Exterior Door Care Oakville
Best Exterior Door Care Oakville team is the one to call when you need to improve your exterior door’s functionality, and we are here for you 24/7! Best Exterior Door Care Oakville service will repair, replace or install any kind of exterior door for you. Best Exterior Door Care Oakville mobile team is always at your service, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Call us 24/7!
Best Exterior Door Care Oakville will help you install a new door, be it your front door, a sliding patio door, or a storm door. Call Best Exterior Door Care Oakville at any time and you will receive a fast and also affordable service. Best Exterior Door Care Oakville has fully stocked vans, with all required tools and supplies to help you on the spot. When you buy a door, it will probably be pre-hung in a frame. Pre-hung doors usually come with wood or steel frames. In most cases, you will need to remove the existing door frame from the rough opening before you install a pre-hung door. The door frame must be as square as possible, so that the door seals tightly to the jamb and swings properly. It is a good idea to use expanding foam caulking to seal the new door frame to the rough opening and threshold to prevent air from getting around the door seals and into the house. You should do this before adding the interior trim. But if you think that you can use our help, remember that we are available 24/7!
If you need to stop heat from getting lost through your doors, consider the following. Glass or “patio” doors, especially sliding glass doors, lose heat much faster than other types of doors because glass is a very poor insulator. Multiple layers of glass and low-e coatings improve the situation by 2 to 3 times, but it is still considerable worse than for a foam-core door. A sliding glass door’s weather-stripping is intended to reduce air infiltration, however by the sliding nature of the door’s design it is impossible to stop all the air leaking around the weather stripping while still being able to use the door. Also, after years of use, the weather stripping wears down and air leakage increases as the door ages. If the manufacturer has made it possible to do so, replace worn weather stripping on sliding glass doors with new weather stripping. When replacing patio doors, keep in mind that swinging doors offer a much tighter seal than sliding types. Most modern glass doors with metal frames have a “thermal break,” which is a plastic insulator between inner and outer parts of the frame. Glass doors are also optionally manufactured with several layers of glazing, low-e coatings, and low conductivity gases between the glass panes. These options are a good investment, especially in extreme climates. Over the long run, the additional cost is paid back many times over in energy savings.
Adding a storm door to your front door is generally a good investment if your existing door is old, but still in good condition. However, adding a new (or more expensive) storm door to a modern foam core door is not generally worth the expense since the added energy saved is very small. But you may have aesthetic reasons for wanting a storm door anyway. In any case, never add a glass storm door if the door gets more than a few hours of direct sun each day. The glass will trap too much heat against the entry door and possibly damage it. Storm doors for patio doors are hard to find but they are available. Adding one to a modern multi-glazed energy-efficient low-e door is seldom economic. Insulated drapes, when closed for the night in the winter (or on sunny days in the summer) are also a good idea. High quality storm doors and windows use low-e glass. Frames are usually made of aluminium, steel, fibreglass, or wood (painted or not). Wooden storm doors require more maintenance than the other types. Metal-framed storm doors and windows might have foam insulation in their frames. Some doors have self-storing pockets for the glass in summer, and an insect screen for the winter. Some storm windows have fixed, full length screens and glass panels that slide out of the way for ventilation. Others are half screen and half glass; these two components slide past each other. Some are easily removed for cleaning, others are not. All of these features add some convenience and higher costs.
Another way to keep the heat running out of your home, is to replace the weather stripping. Replacement weather stripping is often available at most building supply and hardware stores. There are a wide variety of materials to choose from including: foam rubber, EPDM rubber, felt, bent metal, and plastic. When selecting weather stripping, you should consider the durability of the material as well as what would work best for what you are weather stripping. For example: bent brass and aluminium is found on many older doors and are durable, but they conduct heat easily, do not usually seal that well, and are easily damaged by being bent the wrong way or through poor installation. Bent metal weather stripping is also one of the most expensive weather stripping materials. Bent plastics are similar to the bent metals, but are less expensive. They are also less durable. Most rubber and foam materials stay flexible for years, are inexpensive, easily replaced and effectively seal air leaks. You should choose the appropriate door sweeps and thresholds for the bottom of the doors as well. For the best possible results from your investment, you should make certain that the weather stripping material will stay flexible under extreme weather conditions. Also, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. In general, you should:
- Weather strip the entire door jamb
- Apply one continuous strip along each side
- Make sure the stripping meets tightly at the corners
- Use a thickness that, when the door closes, the stripping tightly presses between the door and the door jamb without making the door too hard to close.
In most cases, storm doors are intended to be permanent additions to a home. If you have a window or door that is not opened for long periods of time, a less costly do-it-yourself solution is to seal it from the inside with a plastic sheet. You can make a temporary storm door (or window) by mounting the plastic sheet on a light-weight wooden frame, which has the same dimensions as the opening. Add small handles near the bottom half of the frame to make taking it out easier. Add a strip of felt weather stripping around the frame for a tight seal. Some hardware and home improvement stores sell pre-packaged kits. The thicker sheets are more durable. If you leave your plastic storm door (or window) up all year long, try to buy plastic that is ultraviolet (UV) resistant. It will last longer. There are several kinds of automatic retractable screen storm doors, and the simplest one can be installed in a day. This is a screen door that operates easily, mainly because it does not swing on its hinges or roll on wheels, but instead comes down like a window shade. This kind of automatic retractable screen storm door glides up and down like a window shade. It has a fibreglass screen which is rolled inside a storage cassette or an aluminium case. The installation has to be done over the door-way horizontally. The edges of the screen are supported by aluminium side tracks which are mounted vertically to the doorjambs. How to do it:
- Cutting to Size – Trim the storage cassette and screen to the proper width of your doorway. The exact measurement is 1/8-inch less than the width of the opening. Use a hack saw to do the trimming down.
- Re-Assembling Cassette – Replace all the parts that you had removed before cutting the cassette. Put back the screen handle; replace plastic end caps which should fit back on to the cassette.
- Attaching Mounting Clips – Along with the cassette there are mounting clips, so fix two of them to the head casing above the door. Each clip has a curved lip which should face towards the doorway.
- Mounting Storage Cassette – Lift the cassette carefully to the top of the doorway and fit it in gently on to the mounting clips. Draw a line along each side jamb just below the cassette.
- Installing Side Tracks – After the pencil marking take the cassette off the mounting clips and take the measurement of the height between the sill and the pencil lines. Subtract 1/8 inch from the dimensions, which gives you the measurements of the side tracks, which you have to cut. Put the cassette back on to the mounting clips and put the side tracks in place under the ends of the cassette.
- Fixing of Side Tracks – Use 1 1/2-inch drywall screws to secure each side track to the frame of the door. Drive in the screws only after you have inserted a short section of plastic pipe into the track.
- Finishing Job – You need to test the screen door whether it remains within the side tracks and latches securely when it comes down. Operate the screen up and down a number of times, and check for a smooth operation. The tension on the screen is adjusted at the factory, but if any adjustment is needed you can always open an end cap from the cassette and make the screen a little tighter.
Regardless of the time of the day, or night, you can call our team for any door service. Call us 24/7 and we will come to your help!